Kenya 2nd - 19th Nov 2006

John Clarkson
Alec Empson
Phil Espin
Andy Sims

This report compiled and written by John Clarkson john.clarkson@dsl.pipex.com

This trip was organised by Joseph Mwangi of Nature's Wonderland Safaris info@natureswonderlandsafaris.com . We followed up his advert in Birding World and after looking at his website www.natureswonderlandsafaris.com we were impressed by the itinerary, the range of birds potentially available and by the cost. We flew with Kenya Airways from Heathrow.

Cost
Flight: £401 - $774
Entry visa: £26 - $50
Ground price per person sharing a room: £1436 - $2773
Tips, drinks, sundries: £104 - $200
Total cost: £1960 - $3800

Accommodation
Standards are very good with en-suite facilities in all rooms. Food was excellent throughout with choices to suit all palates.

Itinerary
Out
Dep: Heathrow Thursday 2/11 19:00
Arr: Nairobi Friday 3/11 06:30

3rd Nov
We were met at the airport by Joseph and our driver Chris and taken through Nairobi to a hotel where we met the remainder of the party: Dave and Anita Anderson from Cape May, USA, Les George from Carnarvon WA, Elias our other guide and Peter, driver of the other vehicle. Transport was in Toyota 4 wheel drive mini-buses with pop-up roofs. En route to the Serena Mountain Lodge we stopped at a variety of sites. Thika ponds were very productive with a wide range of species and a good introduction to the birds of the region including several wildfowl and wader species. At Wajee Camp our stop was rewarded with the endemic Hinde's Pied Babbler, African Wood Owl and Tambourine Dove amongst the numerous woodland species.
Overnight at the Serena Mountain Lodge

4th Nov
Early morning birding from the balcony overlooking the waterhole produced Hartlaub's Turaco, Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon and Red-fronted Parrot amongst many others before breakfast. Common Waterbuck were also present. A short walk around the grounds and entrance road added Kenrick's Starling, Grey and Chestnut-throated Apalis, African Crowned Eagle, Ayre's Hawk Eagle, Rueppell's Robin-chat, Mottled Swift and Cinnamon Bracken Warbler. After leaving the lodge we headed north to the Samburu game Reserve. On the way we stopped occasionally, encountering our first Secretary Birds, Long-tailed Widowbird, Brimstone Canary and Dusky Turtle Dove. The arid Samburu landscape is a great contrast to the green of Mt Kenya and so is the birdlife. On the road to the Samburu Serena Lodge we encountered Black Cuckoo, Vulturine Guineafowl, Taita Fiscal and Black-faced Sandgrouse.

5th-6th Nov
Samburu is a varied and bird-rich area with semi-desert habitat and rich woodland along the Ewaso Nyiro River. Highlights included Water Thick-knee, Spotted Morning Thrush, Brown Snake-eagle, Pygmy Batis, Rosy-patched Bush-shrike and Dwarf Bittern, Somali Courser and a pair of Lions loafing on the river bank.
On the morning of the 6th we visited the buffalo Springs Reserve where we found Somali Golden-breasted Bunting, African Hawk-eagle, Heuglin's Courser, Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse, Somali Ostrich and a pair of Cheetahs resting under a bush.
We left Samburu and headed towards the Naro Moro River Lodge. En route we encountered Northern Anteater-chat, Black-chested Snake-eagle,Black and brown-crowned Tchagra and Yellow Bishop. At the Meru Forest we added Yellow-fronted Canary, White-bellied Tit, White-eared Barbet and Grey-headed Negrofinch. Overnight at Naro Moro River Lodge.

7th Nov
After looking round the grounds and adding Green-headed Sunbird, Brown Woodland Warbler and Golden-winged Sunbird we left and headed towards Mt Kenya National Park, encountering African Golden-breasted Bunting on the way. Unfortunately we were refused permission to enter as heavy recent rain had made the roads unsafe and impassable in some places. We decided to press on towards Nakuru, stopping en route. The flooded quarry site at Gatatagwi was productive with Red-faced Crombec, Brown Parisoma, Red-headed Weaver, Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike and nearby Cape Eagle Owl. At Thompson's Falls, Slender-billed Starling and the elusive African Black Duck were seen. We continued to Nakuru where we encountered Black cuckoo-shrike, Common Scimitarbill thousands of Lesser Flamingos and Cape Teal before going to the Sarova Lion Hill for the night.

8th Nov
All morning spent in Lake Nakuru Nation Park. Highlights included Martial Eagle, Verreaux's Eagle Owl, Little Rock Thrush, Arrow-marked Babbler, Grey-crested Helmet-shrike, White-fronted Bee-eater, Buff-bellied Warbler, African Hoopoe, Hildenbrandt's Francolin and the impressive Southern Ground Hornbill. Mammals included Burchell's Zebra, Warthog, Waterbuck, Olive Baboon, Cape Buffalo, Elephant, White Rhinoceros, Rothchild's Giraffe and Thompson's Gazelle. We left Nakuru and headed for Lake Baringo. En route we added Jackson's Hornbill and Black-throated Barbet to our tally.
Lake Baringo is a fresh water lake in semi-desert country, a combination which promises and delivers much. Before dark we visited the lake shore which had Goliath Heron, African Spoonbill, Hammerkop, African Fish Eagle, Greater Painted Snipe, Kittlitz's Plover, Pied and Malachite Kingfisher. Crocodile and Hippopotamus were present in significant numbers. We were cautioned to be careful about the Hippos as they leave the lake to graze on the lawns in front of the rooms after dark. We were privileged to see three animals doing just that.

9th Nov
Birding around the semi-desert area near Baringo Cliffs. The wide range of birds encountered included Grey Eagle Owl, Brubru, Greater Honeyguide, Yellow-spotted Petronia, White-bellied Canary, Spotted Thick-knee, Mouse-coloured Penduline Tit, Heuglin's Courser, Brown-tailed Rock-chat, Lanner, White-faced Scops Owl, Slender-tailed Nightjar and Black-crowned Lapwing. After lunch we explored the lake shore adding African Snipe to our list. Our walk was interrupted by a ferocious rain storm but before we retired we saw White-faced Whistling Duck, Gull-billed, Whiskered and White-winged Tern, Yellow-billed Stork and Three-banded Plover..

10th Nov
After birding around Lake Baring we departed for Kakamega Forest in the western highlands. Crowned Hornbill was seen on the journey which we interrupted with a visit to Kerio Valley where we saw Black-throated Wattle-eye, Grey-throated Barbet, Black and White Casqued Hornbill, Ross's Turaco and Ansorge's Greenbul.
After arriving in the Kakamega Forest region we walked along the track to wards our accommodation at Rondo Retreat. The highlights included Yellow White-eye, African Blue Flycatcher, Green-throated Sunbird, Blue-headed Bee-eater, Dark-backed Weaver, Common Wattle-eye, Luedher's Bush-shrike, Red-headed Bluebill, Banded Prinia, Pink-legged Puffback and in the Rondo grounds Yellow-spotted Barbet, Yellow-billed Barbet, Joyful Greenbul, Stuhlberg's Starling, Least Honeyguide, Black-necked Weaver, White-headed Saw-wing, Great Blue Turacp and Snowy-crowned Robin-chat.

11th Nov
Early morning at Rondo added African Hill Babbler and Dusky Tit. After breakfast we left for the Kakamega Forest Reserve where with the help of a local guide we were able to find Black-crowned Waxbill, Southern Hyliota, Olive-green Cameroptera, White-chinned Prinia, Chubb's Cisticola, Shelley's Greenbul, Western Golden Oriole, Black-faced Rufous Warbler, Turner's Eremomela, Yellow-crested Woodpecker,Ugand Woodland Warbler, Square-tailed Drongo, Brown-chested Alethe, Cassin's Honeyguide, Dusky-crested Flycatcher and the elusive Grey-winged Robin-chat. Back at Rondo in the evening we had frustrating encounters with White-spotted Flufftail, hearing it close by but unable to see it!

12th Nov
Early morning was rewarded with superb views of the Flufftail feeding by the Rondo stream. After breakfast we went on to Kakamega Reserve and added the following to our burgeoning list: Red-tailed Bristebill, Yellow-bellied Wattle-eye, Bar-tailed Trogon, Broad-tailed Warbler, Stout Cisticola, Green Sunbird, Jameson's Wattle-eye, White-headed Wood-hoopoe, Equatorial Akalat, Red-headed Malimbe, Petit's Cuckoo-shrike, and Hairy-breasted Barbet. We returned to Rondo for lunch where our post-prandial rest and list-checking was rudely interrupted when one of our group found an African Broadbill two kilometres along the stream. Despite the time taken to relay the message back to us and for us to get to the site we all had excellent views. Viellot's Black Weaver was also seen.
An afternoon visit to the River Nzoia at Mumias produced Rock Pratincole, Abdim's Stork, Black Crake, Lesser-striped and Angola Swallows, Red-chested Sunbird and Northern Brown-throated Weaver. Last night at the Rondo Retreat which is a lovely place where we would gladly have spent more time exploring than we were able to devote to it.

13th Nov
Early morning we left for Kisumo on the north-eastern shore of Lake Victoria in search of some local specialities. These included: Black-headed Gonolek, Slender-billed Weaver, Carruther's Cisticola, Black-billed Barbet, African Jacana, Striated Heron, Greater Swamp Warbler, Eastern Grey Plantain-eater, Long-toed Lapwing and Red-faced Cisticola along with a variety of herons, gulls, terns and waders.
From here we proceeded to the Masai mara Game Reserve in south-western Kenya. The Mara is the northern extension of the Serengeti plains and the dramatic scenery of its diverse landscape holds a wide range of birds and the most spectacular mammals on the continent. We arrived late in the day for a two night stay at the Mara Serena Lodge and encountered Sooty Chat and Wattled Lapwing along with large numbers of Wildebeest and Buffalo.

14th Nov
All day exploring the Mara. Highlights included Tawny Eagle, Common Ostrich, Lappet-faced Vulture, Rueppell's Griffon Vulture, Black-shouldered Kite, Black-chested Snake-eagle, Temminck's Courser, Hartlaub's and Black-bellied Bustard, Rufous-chested Swallow, Banded Martin, Coqui Francolin, Usambiro Barbet, Silverbird, Senegal Lapwing, Red-necked Spurfowl, Yellow-throated and Rosy-throated Longclaw. Mammals included Banded Mongoose, Hippopotamus, Lion and Giraffe.

15th Nov
Leaving early we travelled across the Mara en route crossing the famous Mara River stopping at the Hippo Pools to gain excellent views of these impressive animals. Pick of the day was Short-tailed Lark, African Paradise Flycatcher, Bataleur, Capped Wheatear, Verreaux's Eagle Owl, Brown Parrot, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, Yellow-throated Sandgrouse, Grey-capped Social Weaver, Flappet Lark, White-headed Vulture, Mosque Swallow and Cinnamon-breasted Bunting.
The highlight of the day however, was a Leopard with a fresh kill which posed beautifully as it came down a tree to find a resting place in the grass.
One night stay at the Mara Sarova Luxury Tented Camp.

16th Nov
Leaving early we birded the Mara en route to the acacia woodland in the Siana Springs area of the southern Mara. Birds of the day were Magpie Shrike, African Pygmy Kingfisher, Red-throated Tit, Green-capped Eremomela and Long-tailed Cisticola. We ended the birding day at Hell's Gate Nature Reserve, the historic scene of a massacre. Here we encountered Schalow's Wheatear and a pair of majestic Verreaux's Eagles.
One night stay at the Lake Naivasha Country Club.

17th Nov
After breakfast the birding day began with a boat trip on Lake Naivasha. Here we saw Great and Long-tailed Cormorant, Southern Pochard, Hottentot Teal, Maccoa Duck, Pintail, Shoveler, Spur-winged Goose, Purple Swamphen, Red-knobbed Coot, Jacana, African Fish Eagle, Whiskered Tern, African Spoonbill, White and Pink-backed Pelican, Saddle-billed Stork and Black Heron amongst others.
Mid-morning we left for Nairobi stopping at several sites en route. At the Kinnangop Plateau we soon found a pair of the rare endemic Sharpe's Longclaw. Next, at Gatamaiyu Forest we added Black-fronted Bush-shrike, White-tailed Crested-flycatcher and Abyssinian Crimsonwing.
One night stay at the Nairobi Silver Springs Hotel.

18th Nov
Our last day was spent in Nairobi National Park close to the capital city. Its wide range of habitats is home to s huge diversity of birds. Our tally for the day included Martial Eagle, Tropical Boubou, Jackson's Widowbird, Streaky Seedeater, African Moustached Warbler, Shelley's Francolin, Common Ostrich, Zebra Waxbill and Pangani Longclaw.
At dusk we went to a restaurant for our final meal together before transferring to Nairobi airport for the journey home.

Return
Dep: Nairobi Saturday 18/11 23.59
Arr: Heathrow Sunday 19/11 06.25